Ostertag – Riesling Pflanzer Le Berceau

Since taking over the family farm in 1980, André Ostertag has brought this small property in the village of Epfig to the summits of Alsatian wine, becoming an icon in the world of biodynamic farming and a valiant ambassador of terroir-driven natural wines in the process. Now officially retired, André has passed this legendery estate to his son, Arthur.
The estate is spread over 15 hectares. In an act of rejection against the official classifications dictated by the A.O.C., Ostertag made up their own categories:

• • • Vins de Fruit that express fruit character rather than that of a specific vineyard site;
    • Vins de Pierre reflecting the terroir from which they originate;
    • Vins de Temps that rely on time and weather to encourage the development of botrytis.

Located in the extension of the Fronholz plot, the Lieu Dit Pflanzer has very similar soils (white sandstone decomposed, quartz, many heavy minerals and quite sandy soils), while the lower part contains more clay and alluvium. It refers to “the nursery” in Alsatian and this parcel was originally used as a vine nursery as the soil is fertile and well ventilated.

Biodynamic. Vin de Pierre. Vinified and aged 20 months on the lees in tanks. RS 2g/L

Biodynamic. The 2021 Riesling Le Berceau is from clay and marl soils. The nose is subtle with gentle, melted candlewax that, by and by, offers a touch of citrus. The palate is beautifully clear and bright but with a buffered freshness that combines clarity and lemon brightness. Purity comes with a distant promise of juicy, rounded stone fruit, while citrus still holds sway. The 2021 is smooth with a tangerine and citrus zest tingle on the dry finish. (Bone-Dry).
92 Vinous

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